Global Threads: The Influence of British Calicos on Traditional Kalamkari Textile

Author Information

Lasya Aji Silpa, Appalachian State University, United States
Manikya Sai Tejaswini Vallabhajosyula, University of North Texas, United States
Barbara Trippeer, University of North Texas, United States

Abstract

This study examines the historical development of Indian Kalamkari, a traditional hand-painted and dyed textile art form, in the context of British colonial trade. Rooted in religious and cultural narratives, Kalamkari once portrayed Indian Hindu mythological and spiritual scenes from epics such as the Ramayana and Mahabharata (Divakala & Vasantha, 2014). However, European market demands during the colonial period initiated a transformation in Kalamkari in its surface design print direction, favoring floral and geometric motifs in its historically rooted narrative compositions. These adaptations gave rise to what is now commonly known as calico, a printed cotton fabric tailored for export, marking a crucial turning point in the evolution of Indian textiles. To trace these shifts, this research adopts a two-method framework of comparative visual analysis supported by surface design observation in liaison with the tracing of historical texts and documentation. By examining the colonial-era calicos and Kalamkari prints, the study identifies compositional and iconographic modifications that reveal how colonial aesthetics displaced indigenous narrative structures. The analysis demonstrates that while the craft’s technical processes endured, its narrative essence was gradually replaced by decorative repetition. The findings from this research indicate that many contemporary artisans, often unknowingly, reproduce surface designs derived from colonial calico templates. This continuity reflects an enduring legacy of cultural erasure, in which colonial design values persist in modern craft production. By uncovering these transformations, the study emphasizes the importance of educating towards Kalamkari’s narrative integrity and recognizing the colonial residues embedded within its current visual identity.

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